St Michael's Old Church

Old Church Road

Betws-y-Coed

Conwy

LL24 0AL

E-mail: friends@stmichaelsbyc.org.uk

Web:www.stmichaelsbyc.org.uk

Phone: Jim Boughton 01492 643526

St Michael's Old Church

Built in the 14th century, St Michael's Old Church is the oldest building in Betws-y-Coed, and is located on the banks of the River Conwy. Replaced by the parish church of St Mary's in 1873, St Michael's lay slumbering peacefully throughout the twentieth century. But by the early 1990's it was in a sorry state, with a leaking roof and associated plaster damage and it was urgently in need of repair work.

In 1994, the Friends of St Michael’s was formed, to raise both awareness of the building, and money to preserve it. Declared redundant in 2000, the building is now leased from the Church in Wales by the St Michael’s Betws-y-Coed Trust, a registered charity (no.1081038), run by the Friends.

St Michael's Old Church

Old Church Road

Betws-y-Coed

Conwy

LL24 0AL

E-mail: friends@stmichaelsbyc.org.uk

Web:www.stmichaelsbyc.org.uk

Phone: Jim Boughton 01492 643526

St Michael's Old Church

When the railway arrived in Betws-y-coed in 1867, it cut St Michael's off from the rest of the village, so this new lychgate was built soon after leading to the new route along what is now Old Church Road. You may notice that the path leading from here to the church entrance actually passes over some old graves!

We cannot answer with certainty when the stone effigy of Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch was placed in the church, or why. It certainly was not intended to lie in its present position: part of Gruffydd's helmet has been cut off to fit the niche. It may originally have been positioned on a table tomb in another, larger, niche in the part of the north wall that was removed to make way for the transept in 1843. It is documented as being present in a niche along the north wall in 1798. The fine limestone carving would originally have been colourfully painted. The paint has worn off and the effigy is now covered with a stone-coloured wash. It shows Gruffydd wearing the armour of a knight, equipped with a sword and a dagger, and typically for a military effigy, resting his head on his tilting helmet and his feet on a lion. The Latin inscription says "Here lies Gruffydd son of Dafydd the Red: Lamb of God have mercy on me".

The knight Gruffydd died during the decade 1370-1380. He held land in Penmachno and, through his wife Margaret, part of Cwmllanerch, half a mile to the north of the church, as well as several other places in North Wales. He is thought to have lived at Fedw Deg, safe on the high ridge between Betws-y-coed and Penmachno, two miles south of St Michael's. It is documented that he fought at the battle of Poitiers in 1356 under the Black Prince, son of King Edward III. There were many Welshmen fighting in France during the Hundred Year's War (1337-1453), some fighting for the French as mercenaries, some for the English, and some changing their allegiance halfway through. Power struggles were complicated and involved the Irish and Scots as well as the Welsh, English and French. Gruffydd has also been noted as the foreman of a jury that met at Trefriw in the 1350's. Given Gruffydd's prominence in the area and the coincidence of the dates of his death and the rebuilding of the medieval church, it is not unreasonable to suggest that he was the original patron and hence the reason for his effigy being here.

Apocryphal tales suggest that Gruffydd may have been descended from the Royal Princes of Gwynedd. It is possible that he was the great great grandson of Llewelyn Fawr, and the grandson of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd the last of the princes of Gwynedd. There is a Gruffydd ap Dafydd mentioned in a Survey of Denbigh taken in 1334 who held land in Llanrwst and whose father Dafydd Goch is thought to be, according to some sources, the illegitimate son of Dafydd, Lord of Denbigh. Dafydd, the brother of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, Prince of Gwynedd, after rebelling against the English King Edward I, was finally condemned and hung drawn and quartered at Shrewsbury in 1283. However, none of the modern historians mention a Dafydd Goch as being an illegitimate son of Dafydd, and imply that the line died out with the imprisonment and death of his two legitimate sons. So Gruffydd remains a mystery: clearly he was a man of means and influence, but of royal blood, we cannot be sure.

The simple altar table dates from the late 17th century and may have come from the Friar's School at Bangor.

The fixed pews and the grand, rather dominating pulpit and reading desk, are part of the 1843 refurbishment. The carved oak includes early linen-fold panelling which almost certainly came from Gwydir Castle at Llanrwst.

The font is older than the church. It was carved in the 13th century and was probably used in an earlier church on the site, although the pillar and wooden cover are more modern.

The original bridge was washed away in floods in 1928, and in 1930 this bridge (also known as the 'Wobbly Bridge') was built by David Rowell & Co of London. Interestingly, the historic boundary between the Diocese of Bangor (where St Michael's is), and the Diocese of St Asaph runs along the Afon Conwy River, so the far side of the bridge is in St Asaph diocese.

This wooden bier was used to carry coffins during funerals as the church is surrounded by a large graveyard. Note that as you look down the nave towards the altar, how the front pew on the left has been cut back with different slate flooring to accommodate the bier and the people carrying it. It originally was kept in the vestry, being slid in through a hatch from the churchyard.